Gargoyle Gecko

Scientific Name: Rhacodactylus auriculatus
Natural Habitat: Gargoyle geckos are native to New Caledonia, where they inhabit humid tropical forests and wooded areas. They are primarily arboreal, spending much of their time climbing among trees, branches, and dense vegetation. 

Crested Gecko

Scientific Name: Correlophus ciliatus
Natural Habitat: Crested geckos are native to New Caledonia, inhabiting warm, humid tropical forests. They are primarily arboreal and are commonly found among trees, branches, and dense foliage.

Personality & Behavior

Crested Geckos

Crested geckos are generally known for being calm, curious, and relatively easy to handle. Each gecko has its own personality, and some may be more outgoing and interactive than others.

They are naturally arboreal and can spend long periods climbing, exploring, or resting among foliage. Crested geckos are most active during the evening and nighttime.

It is completely normal for a new crested gecko to be shy or hesitant when first brought home. Give them time to adjust to their new surroundings before expecting them to be comfortable with handling.

Gargoyle Geckos

Gargoyle geckos are generally calm, curious, and hardy, with individual personalities varying from gecko to gecko. Some are naturally more relaxed and tolerant of handling, while others may be more energetic or jumpy.

Like crested geckos, gargoyle geckos are primarily arboreal and are most active during the evening and nighttime. They enjoy climbing, exploring, and using the different levels and hiding areas within their enclosure.

Young gargoyle geckos can be particularly active and may jump when startled. Consistent, gentle handling can help them become more comfortable and confident over time.

Remember

Every gecko is an individual. Personality, activity level, and tolerance for handling can vary greatly, even between geckos of the same species. Allow your gecko to become comfortable at its own pace, and avoid forcing interaction when it is displaying signs of stress.

Health Monitoring

Regularly observe your gecko for any changes in appearance, behavior, appetite, activity level, or weight. Early detection of potential health concerns can make treatment much easier.

Watch for signs such as:

• Significant or unexplained weight loss

• Persistent lack of appetite

• Lethargy or unusual weakness

• Difficulty climbing or gripping

• Swelling, wounds, or abnormal growths

• Discharge around the eyes, nose, or mouth

• Abnormal droppings or prolonged digestive issues

• Difficulty shedding or retained shed

• Tremors or unusual movements

• Curling of the lips

If you notice persistent or concerning symptoms, consult a qualified reptile veterinarian for proper evaluation and treatment.

Crested & Gargoyle Gecko Enclosure Guide

Minimum Enclosure Size adults

The minimum recommended enclosure size for an adult gecko should provide adequate vertical space for climbing and enrichment.

• Crested Gecko: 18" × 18" × 24"

• Gargoyle Gecko: 18" × 18" × 36"

Larger enclosures are always encouraged when properly furnished and maintained.

Substrate & Humidity

The enclosure substrate should be capable of retaining moisture and supporting appropriate humidity levels. ReptiSoil mixed with sphagnum moss is a good option for maintaining moisture while providing a natural substrate. Provide a deep enough layer for plants to root if real, and enough to burry fake plants.

Humidity should be monitored with a reliable digital hygrometer, and the enclosure should also have adequate ventilation to prevent stagnant, overly wet conditions.

Branches & Climbing

Provide plenty of branches, vines, and climbing opportunities at multiple angles and heights. This gives your gecko opportunities to climb, explore, perch, and find comfortable sleeping locations.

Crested geckos may occasionally sleep on the glass, which is normal. However, providing adequate horizontal and diagonal perches allows them to rest in more natural positions and gives them additional enrichment.

Plants & Cover

Provide plenty of foliage and clutter throughout the enclosure. Dense cover helps geckos feel secure and reduces stress.

Artificial plants are an easy and affordable option, especially when setting up a new enclosure. Plants should be securely positioned and free of sharp edges or exposed wires.

Blackout or background covers can also be placed on the sides and/or back of glass enclosures to provide additional privacy and help the gecko feel secure.

Using Natural Wood

Can I use wood I find myself? Absolutely, but proper selection and preparation are important.

Avoid pine, cedar, sap-producing woods, and other potentially toxic or chemically treated wood. Driftwood can be an excellent choice when properly cleaned and prepared.

Natural wood should be thoroughly cleaned and treated before being placed in the enclosure. Common preparation methods include soaking, freezing, or baking. If using the baking method, follow a reputable reptile-safe preparation guide and never leave wood unattended while heating.

Items to Avoid

For the safety of your gecko, avoid using:

• Reptile carpets or fabric mats

• Calcium sand

• Loose sand

• Gravel

• Wood chips or large wood-based substrates

• Ropes

• Hammocks

• Unsafe plastics

• Sharp or abrasive objects

• Any materials that can become tangled around toes, limbs, or tails

A properly furnished enclosure should provide climbing opportunities, hiding areas, foliage, secure perches, and appropriate humidity while allowing adequate ventilation.

Humidity & Misting

Crested and gargoyle geckos require a humid environment with proper periods of drying. Aim for approximately 60–80% humidity, with occasional drops to around 50% to allow the enclosure to dry between misting sessions.

A morning and evening misting routine is generally sufficient for maintaining appropriate humidity. Always monitor humidity with a reliable digital hygrometer and adjust misting as needed based on your enclosure’s ventilation and conditions.

For those looking for an automated option, an automatic misting system can be used. MistKing is a reliable option for automated enclosure misting.

Foggers

Foggers are not recommended for routine humidity management. They can create very fine water particles that may contribute to the circulation of microorganisms within the enclosure and potentially increase respiratory risks.

A properly ventilated enclosure with controlled misting is the preferred method for maintaining humidity.

Diet

Crested and gargoyle geckos can be fed a high-quality powdered gecko diet, such as Pangea Complete Gecko Diet or Repashy. Many geckos have individual flavor preferences. Mine particularly enjoys Fig & Insects, but offering different flavors can help determine which formula your gecko prefers.

Feeding Schedule

Feeding frequency can be adjusted based on the gecko’s weight and age

• 0–20 grams: Feed daily

• 20–30 grams: Feed every 2 days

• 30–40 grams: Feed every 3 days

• 40+ grams: Feed every 4 days

Individual geckos may require adjustments based on their body condition, growth, and activity level.

Food Placement

Initially, place food dishes in several locations throughout the enclosure. Once you notice your gecko consistently using a particular area, that location can become its primary feeding spot.

It is normal for a gecko to eat very little or not eat immediately after arriving in a new home. Moving to a new environment can be stressful, and it may take time for the gecko to become comfortable. If the gecko is otherwise alert and healthy, give it time to adjust.

If you are concerned that your gecko does not like its food, offer a small amount of a different flavor to determine its preference.

Water & Hydration

A water bowl must be provided. Crested and gargoyle geckos commonly drink droplets from leaves and enclosure surfaces after misting. Fresh water should still be available if desired.

Insects

Offering insects is an excellent supplement to a crested or gargoyle gecko’s diet. A few appropriately sized insects every 4 feedings can provide additional enrichment and dietary variety.

• Use appropriately sized insects.

• Dust insects with calcium without D3.

• Never offer insects larger than the space between the gecko’s eyes.

If a gecko is reluctant to eat insects, you can gently expose the inside of the insect and place it near the gecko’s face. The scent and movement may help encourage feeding.

Monitoring Weight

Every gecko is different, and weight can vary naturally between individuals. Regularly monitoring your gecko’s weight and body condition is important.

Crested and gargoyle geckos can be relatively inactive for long periods, so overfeeding can lead to obesity. Adjust portions and feeding frequency as needed to maintain a healthy body condition.

What is a hunger strike?

Hunger strikes are when a reptile chooses to not eat, this could be due to stress, a new environment, dislike of food, etc. Do not panic if this is you, give your reptile time to acclimate to its enclosure if it is a new habitat or new pet, if this is a new behavior consider changing to a new feeder/flavor!

Building Trust

When bringing your new gecko home, give it time to become comfortable with its new surroundings. Do not immediately try to grab or handle it. Start by simply placing your hand inside the enclosure for a few minutes at a time. Allow your gecko to see and smell your hand without trying to touch it.

Continue this process consistently over the course of 1–2 weeks, allowing your gecko to gradually become familiar with your presence and scent. Some geckos may become comfortable sooner, while others may need more time.

Beginning Handling

Once your gecko seems comfortable with your hand being in the enclosure, you can begin gently attempting to pick it up.

•  Move slowly and calmly.

•  Approach from the side or underneath rather than reaching quickly from above.

•  If your gecko runs away, do not chase it or attempt to grab it. Let it move away and try again another time.

•  Never pull or grab a gecko by its tail.

• -Allow the gecko to walk onto your hand whenever possible.

• -Keep initial handling sessions short and gradually increase the time as your gecko becomes more comfortable.

It is completely normal for a new crested or gargoyle gecko to be nervous, jumpy, or avoid your hand at first. The goal is to build trust rather than force interaction. 

During Handling

Crested and gargoyle geckos are excellent climbers and can jump unexpectedly. Always handle them close to a safe surface, such as over their enclosure or while seated.

If your gecko becomes extremely stressed, repeatedly tries to flee, or shows signs that it wants to be left alone, return it to its enclosure and try again later.

Every gecko has its own personality. Some will become very comfortable with handling, while others may prefer shorter and less frequent interactions. Respecting their comfort level is an important part of responsible care.

BIOACTIVE ENCLOSURE SETUP

A bioactive enclosure is very similar to a standard non-bioactive enclosure. The main differences are the addition of a drainage layer, live plants, and a clean-up crew.

SUBSTRATE

The substrate setup is very similar to a non bioactive enclosure.

1. Drainage Layer

Add a 1–2 inch layer of clay balls to the bottom of the enclosure.

2. Mesh Barrier

Add a piece of mesh over the clay balls. This will separate the soil from the drainage layer and prevent the two from mixing.

3. Soil

Add a ReptiSoil and sphagnum moss mixture on top of the mesh, adding a little amount of sand can also provide structure and help.

PLANTS

We recommend purchasing plants from your local nursery. Local nurseries can often provide a larger selection of plants for less money.

Before adding nursery plants to your enclosure, they should be properly sanitized.

Important: Moving plants from one environment to another can cause plant shock. Plants may lose leaves, wilt, or even die after being moved into an enclosure. This is normal and should not discourage you. Give the plants time to adjust to their new environment.

Preparing Plants for the Enclosure

1. Remove Excess Soil

When you get home, shake the excess soil from the potted plant into the yard. Once you have removed as much of the original soil as possible, set the plants aside and prepare a bucket or container.

2. Prepare the Solution

Fill a 5-gallon bucket or container with water. Add a small amount of bleach to create a very diluted solution.

3. Soak the Plants

Place the plants into the solution and allow them to sit for 15–30 minutes.

Once the time is complete, thoroughly rinse the plants with cold water.

4. Plant the Plants

You can either:

• Plant them directly into the enclosure soil, or

• Place them into pots and cover the pots with enclosure soil.

5. Provide Proper Lighting

Make sure you have appropriate grow lights ready before adding live plants. Plants require adequate light to receive the nutrients they need to grow and remain healthy.

CLEAN-UP CREW

A clean-up crew is a group of beneficial organisms that helps break down mold, waste, and decaying organic matter within the enclosure.

1. Choose Your Clean-Up Crew

Find a reputable breeder and purchase:

• Dairy Cow Isopods or Powdered Isopods

• Springtails

Both are beneficial because they perform different jobs within the enclosure.

Springtails help manage things that may not be easily visible, including mold and decaying plant matter.

Isopods help break down decaying organic matter and waste.

2. Add Leaf Litter

Add leaf litter around the plants and throughout the enclosure. This provides the clean-up crew with food and places to hide.

You can also add pieces of moss to provide additional hiding areas and help create areas of higher humidity. I personally use sheet moss.

3. Add the Clean-Up Crew

Once the enclosure is prepared, add the springtails and isopods.

They do not need to be fed immediately. They can begin by feeding on the leaf litter and establishing themselves within the enclosure.

THAT'S IT

A bioactive enclosure is not significantly different from a standard enclosure.

Lighting and temperatures remain the same.

The primary differences are:

• Adding a drainage layer

• Adding live plants

• Adding a clean-up crew

• Properly sanitizing plants before introducing them

Remember: Some plants may lose leaves, wilt, or die after being moved into the enclosure due to plant shock. This is normal. Give your plants time to adjust, provide them with proper lighting, and do not give up on them.