Bearded dragon guide

Care for Bearded dragons

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DO NOT COHAB THESE SPECIES!! What does this mean? Do not keep more than 1 beardie per enclosure!!

Information

Bearded Dragon Overview

Scientific Name: Pogona vitticeps

Bearded dragons are medium-sized, terrestrial lizards native to the arid and semi-arid regions of Australia. They are active during the day and spend much of their time basking, exploring, and searching for food.

The are classified as dirunal, which means active during the day.

Bearded dragons are known for the expandable throat area that resembles a “beard,” which they may darken or puff out when displaying, communicating, or feeling threatened.

They are omnivores, eating a combination of live insects, leafy greens, vegetables, and occasional fruit. With proper care, nutrition, lighting, and temperature, bearded dragons can thrive in captivity and live up to 15-20 years!

Feeding/diet/weight

Feeding

A water bowl is nice but not needed, as they usually drink droplets from leaves after misting, similar to morning dew. I give mine a bowl as an option, as it is a great idea.

BUGS

Bearded dragons need bugs every day as babies. As they become juveniles, rotate to every other day, and then 3 times a week as an adult.

During a 15-minute feeding period, get them to eat as many as possible, or approximately 7–10 insects.

Bugs should be no larger than the space between any reptile's eyes.

Good staple feeder insects include:

Crickets
Dubia roaches

CALCIUM

All bugs should be tossed in a powder supplement of calcium WITHOUT D3.

Every couple of days, add vitamin powder.

GREENS

As young babies, I hardly feed mine greens, but I do offer them.

Their diet will be approximately 80% bugs and 20% greens.

As an adult it will swap to 80% greens and 20% bugs

Good staple greens include:

Kale
Baby arugula
Turnip greens
Mustard greens
Spinach
Collard greens
Dandelion greens
Parsley
Basil

Please avoid lettuce, bok choy, etc.

Rotate the greens so your pet does not become bored with the same foods.

VEGETABLES

Providing a good staple vegetable can help fill out the salad. Options include:

Zucchini
Bell pepper
Baby carrots
Broccoli

You can feed squash, but usually as a treat once a week.

FRUITS

AVOID TOO MANY FRUITS. Too much fruit can lead to health problems such as mouth issues.

Feed fruit once a month as a treat, such as apples.

What is a hunger strike?

Hunger strikes are when a reptile chooses to not eat, this could be due to stress, a new environment, dislike of food, etc. Do not panic if this is you, give your reptile time to acclimate to its enclosure if it is a new habitat or new pet, if this is a new behavior consider changing to a new feeder and or veggies as this is usually where they get picky!

Growth Chart

Please note all bearded dragons grow at a different rate

Hatchlings (0–2 months)

Measure approximately 3–5 inches long. They shed often and eat tiny insects multiple times a day.

Juveniles (2–11 months)

Grow quickly, adding approximately 1–3 inches per month to reach lengths of 8–16 inches.

Adults (12–18+ months)

Growth slows down as they reach their final length of approximately 16–24 inches. Males usually grow larger, reaching up to 24 inches, while females are generally around 20 inches.

Personality

Personality & Behavior

Bearded dragons are generally known for their curious, social, and personable nature. They are often very interactive with their keepers and can become comfortable with regular, gentle handling.

Each bearded dragon has its own personality. Some are calm and relaxed, while others are more active, curious, and eager to explore their surroundings.

Bearded dragons are primarily active during the day and spend much of their time basking, exploring, eating, and observing their surroundings. It is normal for them to spend periods of time resting or remaining still, especially while basking.

Handling

With consistent and gentle handling, many bearded dragons become comfortable being picked up and handled. Always support their body properly, including their legs and body, and allow them to move at their own pace.

Young bearded dragons may be more energetic or nervous when first acquired. Give them time to become comfortable with their new environment and avoid excessive handling while they are adjusting.

Individual Personality

Every bearded dragon is different. Some will be more outgoing and interactive, while others may prefer to sit quietly and observe. Their personality can also develop and change as they grow.

The best approach is to learn your individual dragon's behavior and respect their boundaries while building trust through positive, consistent interactions.

Health

Keep a close eye on your bearded dragon for any changes in behavior, appetite, weight, activity, appearance, and droppings. Regular observation can help identify potential health concerns early.

Signs of a Healthy Bearded Dragon

Clear, alert eyes
Good appetite
Healthy body weight and muscle tone
A full, healthy-looking tail
Normal movement and activity
Regular, solid droppings with white urate
Clean skin and complete sheds
Bright and alert behavior

Signs to Watch For

Watch for:

Sudden weight loss
Loss of appetite
Unusual lethargy or weakness
Difficulty walking or moving
Tremors or abnormal movements
Swelling or unusual lumps
Discharge from the eyes, nose, or mouth
Difficulty shedding or retained shed
Abnormally runny or unusual droppings
Changes in behavior that are unusual for your individual dragon

If you notice persistent or concerning symptoms, contact a qualified reptile veterinarian for proper evaluation.

Regular weight checks are also a good way to monitor your bearded dragon's overall health and catch changes that may not be immediately noticeable.

Enclosure/set up

Bearded Dragon Enclosure Guide

Substrate

The substrate should be a 50/50 mix of play sand and soil. Do not use purely sand.

BABIES / NEWLY ACQUIRED

To start with baby bearded dragons, or newly acquired dragons, you should place them on a paper towel so you can monitor their poop.

Their poop should be solid with a white urate. If you start to notice that it is overly runny or that your bearded dragon is displaying abnormal behavior, seek a veterinarian.

Clutter & Climbing

The enclosure should be filled with clutter and opportunities to climb, such as branches. Provide fake plants for clutter or real plants if creating a bioactive enclosure.

Rocks & Basking Area

Give them a couple of rocks to sit on, with one positioned under a heat lamp to serve as a basking spot.

For babies, I recommend a large platform with a slate or ceramic textured tile, as these materials hold heat well.

Hot & Cool Sides

A bearded dragon enclosure should have a hot side and a cool side.

Cool side: Staying in the 80s°F
Hot side: Staying in the 90s°F

See the Lighting & Heat section for specific information.

Using Natural Wood

“Can I use wood I find myself?” Absolutely, but please make sure it isn't pine or a porous/sap-producing wood, as this can be harmful to reptiles.

Driftwood is great but should be properly prepared by baking, soaking, or freezing it. We soak ours in baking soda and water for a week or freeze it for a week. The baking method has guides available online.

ITEMS TO AVOID

Avoid carpets, mats, calcium sand, pure sand, ropes, hammocks, gravel, wood chips, unsafe plastics, and sharp objects.

Humidity

Humidity should not exceed 30%. with spikes occasionally being okay

Spray your enclosure in the morning to give it a morning dew feel. Sometimes, bearded dragons will drink droplets from the leaves.

Bearded dragons are hydrophobic!!

Lighting/heat

Lighting & Temperature

Lighting can get difficult, so bear with me. Most reptiles are on a 12/12 schedule, which means 12 hours of day and 12 hours of night.

For bearded dragon species, THROUGH MESH, a T5 10.5 ReptiSun UVB is the best.

The precise UVI value is 4.0

UVB

UVB IS needed for them. Without it, they don't get the vitamins needed for digestion.

Basking & Heating

Basking bulbs are great for providing IR-A to lizards, helping mimic the sun and providing great vitamins.

Hooking a basking bulb to a thermostat is a great idea, but you don't want it constantly dim.

Anywhere from a 100–125 watt HALOGEN bulb is sufficient for providing a basking spot and ambient temperature, depending on distance.

WHERE TO PLACE

Place the uvb and heat lamp is the same area overlapping to mimic the sun

Temperature

Temperatures should stay approximately:

Cool side: 80°F
Hot side: 90°F
Basking spot: 100–110°F

Bearded dragons are belly lizards, which means they take heat through the stomach. Hanging a bulb from the top to heat a rock is great.

WHAT TO AVOID

Avoid:

Any bulb that states it has added UVB or other unnecessary features
Red light — red light is incredibly harmful to reptiles
Reptile heat mats without a thermostat
Heat rocks (electrical rocks from Petco)

These heating elements will burn your lizard, and these burns are horribly painful.

Bioactive Enclosures

If you are attempting a bioactive enclosure, you will also need UVB grow lights. You can find inexpensive options on Amazon.

Temperature guages

please avoid using dial temperature guages as they are unreliable, instead stick to using digital thermometers/hdryometers.

How to start handling.

Building Trust

When bringing your new beardie home, give it time to become comfortable with its new surroundings. Do not immediately try to grab or handle it. Start by simply placing your hand inside the enclosure for a few minutes at a time.

Continue this process consistently over the course of 1–2 weeks, allowing your beardie to gradually become familiar with your presence and scent. Some geckos may become comfortable sooner, while others may need more time.

Beginning Handling

Once your bearded dragon

Once they seem comfortable with your hand being in the enclosure, you can begin gently attempting to pick it up OR for choice based handling let it choose to climb onto your hand

Move slowly and calmly.
Approach from the side or underneath rather than reaching quickly from above.
If your beardie runs away, do not chase it or attempt to grab it. Let it move away and try again another time.
Never pull or grab a bearded dragon by its tail.
Allow the bearded dragon to walk onto your hand whenever possible.
Keep initial handling sessions short and gradually increase the time until they become more comfortable.
To pick up a dragon gently grab the underneath of their belly and provide support.

It is completely normal for a new beardie to be nervous, jumpy, or avoid your hand at first. The goal is to build trust rather than force interaction.

During Handling

If your bearded dragon becomes extremely stressed (black beard, stress marks, biting), repeatedly tries to flee, or shows signs that it wants to be left alone, return it to its enclosure and try again later.

Every bearded dragon has its own personality. Some will become very comfortable with handling, while others may prefer shorter and less frequent interactions. Respecting their comfort level is an important part of responsible care. Some may never want to be held and you should prepare yourself for that.

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